GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2012: Birmingham City University

You can also read my article on The Style Column.

Birmingham City University displayed a varied collection seemingly inspired by the contrast between rural and urban life.

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STEPHANIE DEWIS

The opening collection displayed a simple monochrome colour scheme amidst black shapes. Leather dungaree dresses and transparent, crumpled chiffon added an exciting tone to the almost Mormon-like outfits. High collars and wide-brimmed short hats were stand out pieces.

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KAT REYNOLDS

This collection was memorable due to the ranges of luxury knitwear and statement jewellery. Featuring giant scalloped-sleeved jackets and jumpers and forest print in turquoise, pale lilac, black and white, the pieces struck a perfect balance between country estate and modern city living.

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HOIYAN HUNG

An intriguing show featuring 3D ruffled skirts made from cellophane sheets and overlapping, long, layered dresses and ripped smocks. The colour scheme of khaki, charcoal and lemon yellow was spiced up by digital print in a stain effect and accentuated shoulders. Most notable were the Perspex flat-forms resembling blocks of ice that summarised the naturalistic theme.

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JADE GILCHRIST

Giving a loud and eccentric collection that created a combination between 1980’s nostalgia, Aztec royalty and pop art, Gilchrist trademarked her look with ostentatious fringed earrings and assaulting print. The colour scheme included anything that is bright, and the oversized platform trainers added a dangerous edge to each fun ensemble.

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KELLY MAYES

Most pieces were a mix of black leather and wool, with the inclusion of velvet for the arm sleeves. Giving a winter collection suitable for the elusive modern gentleman, Mayes had balaclava-style necks alongside tan brogues. The look is private and chic.

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JAMES WHITEHOUSE

Predominantly using PVC and a hairy material, James Whitehouse produced a collection that combines Catwoman with a swan ballerina. Hoisted flared skirts and unforgiving rubber dresses produced excitement and an essence of danger.

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SOPHIE MCKEATING

Using jockey hats and heritage colours of navy, cream, and burgundy, the collection gave a new elegance to country wear. One dress had flapper style fringing, whilst an overcoat resembled a cape. The pieces had a clear sporty influence but were made for those to wear for most occasions.

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LUKE PORTER

This was an extremely unconventional menswear collection that included a bronze body suit, an ankle-length, layered, candy-coloured hairy jumper, and miss-matched prints. Each model was bare foot and the little use of tailoring gave a primal feel but in modern dyes.

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BETH TWIGG

This sporty yet sexy display in shades of dusky pink, pewter, beige and cream neutralised the modern minimalism of the collection. Pannelled skirts and biker jackets were in dynamic slim cuts, accompanied by wedge trainers and caps.

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BETHANY HERMON

Outfits here were in natural shades of nude, peach, white and black, often with digital illustration. The frayed rope belt and stain-like print added masculinity and mess  to the feminine see-through chiffon maxi skirts and neat, thick-knit jumpers.

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MILES DUNPHY

A thickly layered menswear collection made up mostly of knit pieces, this show was urban, sporty, winter fashion. Its appeal lay within the multitude of textures and fabrics, which when paired with the orange, grey, and blue colour scheme, gave a lot of visual stimulation.

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EMILY ABASSI

Abassi gave a thoroughly chic collection of evening wear in dark shades of black and red, and made from chiffon, sequins and leather. The mullet skirt and peplum pleat dress ensure movement, and the red tights keep the collection assertive as well as sleek.

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SOPHIE SAUNDERS

The collection kept a repetitive print of green tapestry print, exposing it as surprisingly versatile by using it in vintage-style smock dress as well as hot pants and patched within a leather jacket. This heritage print was complimented perfectly by dark peach leather and soft cream in the blouses and billowed sleeves.

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STACEY CRACKNELL

This collection decided to keep colours to a minimal and instead experiment with length and structure with long coats and man-dresses and cropped trousers. Artistic mythical imagery and wide fedora style hats added intrigue to the simplistic pieces.

   

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AMY HOLDEN

A warm and wearable collection in fiery tones of maroon, red, burnt amber and faded gold. Holden gives us a great idea of her pattern skills with precise cut outs, and there is a clear Navajo influence with an abundance of fringing and Aztec patterns.

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EMILIE HALE

The collection uses oversized jumpers and cardigans and layering of double denim to create a street, tomboy theme. Hale gives a mismatch of pattern and design styles with bolero jackets and baggy dungarees, knitted beanie hats and one model even wearing a pair of oversized knickers instead of trousers.

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HOLLY WEAVER

Puffa jackets and high-sheen hoodies formed two of the pieces showcased by Holly Weaver in her collection of charcoal coloured winter wear for men. Each outfit included metallic material to add an urban sparkle to traditional wool coats and rain jackets.

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LILY STODEL

Bright and feminine colours gave the catwalk show a change of pace towards the end with Lily Stodel’s collection. Playful, and ultra-girly, the collection came in various shades of pink and a number of different textures, including metallic leather and mohair. 80’s style scribbled leggings and floaty dresses adorned with child-like handwriting created fun pattern, while the patent white platform trainers paid homage to the Spice Girl era.

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NATALIE MARTIN

The penultimate show gave a modern feel to gritty, earthy colours and shape. The stand-out piece was the velvet dip-dyed effect flowing maxi dress in khaki see-through chiffon. It reoccurred in varying lengths throughout the collection for different occasion styles, with Martin including evening wear as well as dark sporty raincoats and aubergine coloured jumper dresses.

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DEAN FALLON

The final collection was all about shape; 3D boxey coat pockets and oversized, cropped wool trousers were some of the styles showcased by Fallon. He also designed leather half bibs for on top of outerwear for his adventurous outfits. Leggings and smocks to the knee display his attempt to introduce androgyny. k

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Words by Elle Jenkinson

Photography by Jack Grange